Tuesday, March 25, 2014

North Wales, 23 Mar 2014


I haven't stayed up north lately because, frankly, I'd run out of things to do. Plus the UK shuts down for winter.

However, there was a concert--Tom Paxton and Janis Ian--in Liverpool on Saturday, so I decided to stay up.  (There was also an incredibly complicated back-story about the ridiculous lengths I'd gone to qualify for a bunch of extra Holiday Inn points, but I won't bore you with that.)

I've been to Liverpool a few times now and I quite like it, but I didn't want to spend the whole weekend there, so I started looking around and then I made the mistake of asking one of my co-worker -- who is Welsh -- for suggestions. After 3 hours, I felt like I knew all of north Wales, and with him showing me everything on Google Streetview, I wasn't sure I actually needed to visit, but I agreed to go primarily to shut him up.

So it was I woke on Saturday at the crack of noon and drove into Liverpool. It was not an auspicious start--the hail was so heavy I couldn't see out the windshield.  The wind was blowing straight off the ocean and it was absolutely freezing.  The first two restaurants I went to were closed.  I spent the entire day trying to stay indoors -- when the museum* closed at 5, I went to the local mall.  (Turned out to be an outdoor mall.)  When the shops closed, I went and sat in my car.  Nevertheless, the concert was great and it was well worth it.

On Sunday I drove an hour into Wales, past the sea and into Conwy, a walled town with a spectacular 13th century castle.  Of course, the Welsh probably didn't appreciate it--it was built by Edward I after he conquered Wales in 1283.  (Scotland would not join the party until 1603.) 

After touring Conwy I drove to Llanwrst, which is pronounced something like "Klanrust" but completely defeated my sat nav, which just spelled it out instead.  Llanwrst is a tiny little village outside of  Bedws-y-Coed, but my destination was the cutest little cottage you can imagine, but it was on the opposite side of the scariest bridge imaginable! It was only one lane wide, with two-way traffic, with a steep centre arch so you can't see the opposite side!! I sat on the shoulder trying to figure out if the sat nav had gone suicidal, but I watched two cars pass so I steeled up my nerves and went for it. Just as I approached the center, another car came from the opposite direction, so I had to reverse off. Tried again, same issue. Third time I finally made it.

Lunch (Welsh rarebit, naturally!) was delicious, but then I had to rush to my next destination, Llangollen ("Klangocklen") ,to catch a steam train at 3pm.  I literally made it by the skin of my teeth--they actually held the train while I bought my ticket!  However, it was an idyllic 2-hour journey along the River Dee, watching newborn lambs frollicking in the grass.  Normally there is snow on the ground at this time of year!

To end the day I went to the Pontcysyllte ("pont kuh suth te") Aqueduct, which is an amazing bit of engineering built in 1805 by Thomas Telford, who built most of the engineering marvels in the north of England.  (His counterpart, Isembard Kingdom Brunel, focused on the south of England.)  The aqueduct is over 1000 feet long and soars 126 feet over the River Dee, with only a small footpath alongside!  You can actually take a canal boat along this stretch, but there are no railings on the "water" side, so I think I would be in a blind panic the entire way.  As it was, I couldn't make it the whole way on the footpath (with a railing!) -- I had to turn back half-way.

The day could not have been more perfect.  Although it was cold, the sun was out and everything was shiny.  And there is still plenty more to do in north Wales: Bangor Cathedral, Menai straights, Beaumaris Castle in Anglesey, Beddgelert in Caernarfon, Abersoch beach.  There's also Chirk castle, Powis castle, and even Ruthin Castle, which is now a luxury B&B!  I could also take the ferry from Holyhead to Dublin, just two hours away.

My next free weekend is May 10-11, so I better start planning!

* I learned what a "connie onnie butty" is, and it is revolting.