Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Home sick

No, really I was home, sick, today. Except for the part where I went to HomeBase to buy plants. For my flat that I'm never at. Which I finally planted at 1am. In the kitchen. Making a god-awful mess. Did I mention I'd just cleaned the place? Or that I'm leaving in the morning? Something is very wrong with me.

And how do you plant cacti, anyway? Without impaling yourself, I mean. These baby cacti are cute as buttons but just as nasty as their parents. I tried to use a cloth to move them into their new pots, but when I tried to remove the cloth, the cactus came with it. They are all crooked.

I also got a new gardenia (my last one died of SPUDS -- Sudden Plant Unexplained Death Syndrome) and a wandering jew, because that just seems so prosaic.

What I really want is a prayer plant, but I haven't seen any in nurseries here. I have seen some at work, and when I get a new job, those babies are mine.

Monday, May 27, 2013

Journeys into Judaism

A few months ago, I was invited to speak at a local Jewish conference about my conversion to Judaism.  Anyone who knows me knows how much I hate public speaking, and although I'm very proud to be Jewish, I hate to discuss my personal conversion, so of course I said yes. 

I really need to learn how to say "no."

Fortunately it was part of a panel, so I only had to speak for about ten minutes.  One woman was talking about her father, who was raised in a strict Orthodox family but then completely rejected Judaism, married a Catholic (who didn't even know he was Jewish), and refused to even discuss anything Jewish...except he kept all of the Jewish customs, like lighting two candles on Friday night, and making a stack of toilet paper for Saturday.  (Orthodox Jews are not allowed to tear paper on the Shabbat.  Don't ask.)  When he died, his daughter got in touch with his side of the family (whom she'd never met) and finally started to understand her father, which led her to "convert" to Judaism.

Another woman was born in Hungary, and did not know any Jews.  During World War II, Hungary was so supportive of the Nazi regime, even Adolf Eichmann -- who was responsible for the "final solution" -- was surprised.  Of the 850,000 Jews, 600,000 were killed.  (And of those who survived, 116,000 had already been deported to concentration camps but were liberated by the Allies.)  She only learned about Jews in school, but for some reason she felt a very strong affinity which continued to grow, until she sought out a synagogue and eventually converted.

And then there was me.  Here is my speech:


Hello, my name is Gregg, and I don’t believe in G‑d. There, I said it.  That’s not uncommon for someone born Jewish, but it’s probably rare for an atheist to convert to Judaism.

I was obviously born in the States and my mother was—is--a devout Christian.  My parents were both involved in the church; we went every Sunday; I was baptised and confirmed; I attended Sunday school; but I don’t think I ever really believed on G-d.
By the time I was 19, I grudgingly accepted I was an atheist.

I say grudgingly because atheists still experience life in the same profound, emotional, illogical way; we just don’t have any tools to help make sense of it.  Rejecting faith doesn’t make you feel enlightened; it makes you feel empty and alone.  I’ve always said atheism is its own religion, based on the faith that that there is no faith.  It has its own zealots and dogma, but without any of the benefits.

In any case, in today’s secular world nobody cares if you’re an atheist (except my mother).  So I grew up, married a woman who described herself as agnostic – although I’m pretty sure she didn’t know what that meant – and just got on with life.

Then two things happened.  In 2006, my wife and I moved from Los Angeles to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, restored a 250-year-old mansion and opened a bed & breakfast.  It was a true labour of love: it cost over a million dollars, took 18 months, was incredibly stressful, and at the end of it all I had was two suitcases and a divorce decree.

But I also had, for the first time in my life, a real sense of belonging.  The mansion had been a fixture in the community, and the number of people who came to tell me about their connections to the property was both overwhelming and deeply humbling.  I felt, for the first time, that I’d been part of something bigger than me.

In addition, Lancaster is the centre of the Amish community in the States, and it was really the first time I’d been in contact with deeply spiritual people.  I got to know several of them quite well, and I was forced to shed all of my preconceptions about such close-knit communities, because these were some of the most engaged and open people I’d ever met.

But unfortunately I had to leave and start my life over.  The obvious choice was to return to Los Angeles, so instead I moved to London, based solely on the fact that I’d been here on holiday a few years before, and I quite liked it.  I didn’t know a single person here except the owner of the small hotel I’d stayed at.  I called her and asked for a room for a couple of weeks.

My plan was to come over for a couple of years, see a bit of the world, and then go back, but life intervened and I met a woman and fell hopelessly in love.  Needless to say, she was Jewish. Or to be more accurate, she was “culturally Jewish.”  Me being atheist obviously wasn’t an issue, but when we got engaged and started talking about having children, she suddenly told me she wanted to raise them Jewish.

Now here’s a bit of irony for you: Despite my own lack of faith, I always felt children should be brought up within a religion.  Being raised without a faith doesn’t allow them to choose their own beliefs; it alienates them from all religions, because they have no framework to start from.  It would be the equivalent of not teaching your child how to speak in order to allow him to choose his own language!  So I knew I wanted to bring up my children with a faith, but Christianity didn’t make any sense to me, so how do you teach a child a religion that you don’t believe in yourself?

So the thought of raising my children Jewish was not a problem, but obviously I needed to know more Judaism.  My fiancĂ© was hopeless—she didn’t even belong to a synagogue—but her parents referred me to a reform synagogue in London, and although I was clear I was only interested in learning--not converting—the rabbi suggested I attend the conversion classes because, as he said, “all we do is talk about is what it means to be Jewish.”

Now, I can’t speak for any other rabbi at any other shul in any other branch of Judaism; all I can talk about is my experience.  But had I gone in and we started talking about G‑d, I probably would have been finished in five minutes. 

But instead we talked about people and community, traditions and values, history and continuity, and all of the life affirming aspects of religion without any dogma or voodoo.  For example, the rabbi challenged the class to find meaning in the Torah.  Now, if you believe G‑d wrote the Torah, then of course you should elevate it and try to understand it and do what it says.  But if you believe people wrote the Torah then what makes it different to, say, Oliver Twist?  Sure it’s a good story, with lots of interesting characters, but nobody thinks Charles Dickens is a god.

So the logical response is to say there is no value in the Torah, but that wasn’t how I felt, and as I learned more, about how people responded to the Torah, and the community that exists in relationship to the Torah, then for me the Torah became meaningful because other people found it meaningful.  Is that logically consistent?  Absolutely not.  Does it have to be?  No, we’re talking about spirituality here.  What’s important is that I could suddenly empathise with a group of people who were asking important questions about who they were and what they were supposed to do, and they were finding beautiful, subtle, and complex answers in the Torah.  And I could identify with people 5,000 years ago as easily as I could identify with people today.

That’s when I knew I wanted to convert.

I should note my fiancĂ© and I had split up during this period, and I was finishing the class on my own. I could have left it as a fantastic intellectual exercise, or I could have adopted some aspects of Judaism in my life, but I knew it wasn’t enough to admire the Jewish community; I wanted to be part of it.  I knew it wasn’t enough to practice the rituals; I wanted them to be my traditions.  I knew that when asked about my religion, I didn’t want to quietly mumble “atheist” but to proudly say, “I’m Jewish.”

I’ll finish by telling you what happened when I told my devout mother I was converting.  I’d been dreading the conversation, thinking she would be devastated, but she said she was thrilled!  Confused, I had to ask why and she said, “I’m just happy you finally found G‑d.”

I hope that by G‑d she meant people who inspire me, a community that accepts me, rituals that connect me, tradition that grounds me, ethics which bind me, and a real faith which fulfils and sustains me. Thank you.



Monday, May 20, 2013

All work and no play

When I say I'm at work on a Sunday afternoon, you have to bear in mind two things:
  1. This weekend I've been to two shows, an art gallery, had a massage, and walked through a bluebell wood and a priory 
  2. I mostly came here to heat my lunch I stayed up north this weekend. 
I've actually been quite good about spending alternate weekends up north, and have now been to Glasgow, Chester, the Wirral, York, Leeds/Carlisle, and now Manchester. On Friday I had a ticket for Bill Bailey, and I was looking for somewhere to stay when I found the Victoria Warehouse hotel.  Now, if you knew me in Los Angeles, you know I rented a loft in a converted bank building, and absolutely loved it -- the cement floors, the open beam ceiling with metal girders, the floor-to-ceiling windows, it was fantastic.  So to find a hotel that did exactly the same thing was pretty cool.  The only difference were the windows--there weren't any.  At least not in the rooms, which was a bit disconcerting.  But it was still very cool, and beats the Holiday Inn every time.

They also had yoga classes and a spa.  Unfortunately there weren't any yoga classes on this weekend, but I did get a massage which was heavenly. (I still didn't sleep well that night, but I guess the massage only deals with the physical issues.)

The hotel was along the Manchester shipping canal, so it was a lovely walk into town.  On Saturday I went to the Manchester synagogue, which is always warm and friendly, and then the Manchester art gallery, which was surprisingly lovely.  I'm very critical of museums and art galleries, so that is high praise indeed.  (They had a special exhibit from Raqib Shaw, although the photos don't do the paintings justice.)

Sunday morning I checked out and came back to Runcorn, which is where I work  Now I've complained bitterly of Runcorn in the past, but I came back because I wanted to see the Norton Priory -- which was closed all winter -- and I heard there was a bluebell wood next to the priory.  I was not disappointed with either, although I was finished around 2pm.  I could have checked into the hotel, but that meant eating lunch at the hotel -- which is dreadful -- so I picked something up and brought it to work, where I could use the microwave.  I try to be resourceful when I can...

Norton Priory
May 19, 2013
by Gregg

Manchester

I still have northern Wales, the Peaks District, Blackpool, and possibly the Isle of Man to visit, plus I already have return trips planned for Leeds, Manchester and Edinburgh.  (I'm also thinking I could do a much-more-manageable 12-hour drive around Wales rather than an absolutely-insane 40-hour journey around England...)

Friday, May 17, 2013

Coastal route

Britain is a tiny nation, just 600 miles from Land's End to John o' Groats, but I was idly wondering how long it would take to drive *around* Britain.  Turns out it's almost 3,000 miles and would take over 70 hours! (They don't have motorways along the coast like in California.)  Of course, half of that is Scotland, so just circling England and Wales would take around 35 hours.

That begs the question, why would anyone want to do it?  Well, the next time I have to drive from Runcorn to Workington, rather than take the direct 2.5 hour drive, I just might take the scenic route*.

* I'm not sure how my company would respond if I submitted an expense claim for £432 in petrol.

Thursday, May 16, 2013

Hoi polloi

Literally, Greek for "the many." Ironically, often used by the hoi polloi to mean "the few."

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoi_polloi

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Emotional support

Last weekend I stopped communicating with the people who gave me emotional support, and I stopped communicating with them precisely because they gave me emotional support.  I recognised I was leaning on them to avoid moving forward in my life, and I needed some time and distance to get things back in perspective.

Of course, no sooner than I've stopped communicating with the people who gave me emotional support, then someone sends me a photo of my Uncle George.  Just in case I wasn't depressed enough.

It's hard to believe he's been gone ten months now.  The last I heard from his daughter, we were talking about scattering his ashes -- that was six months ago now.

I don't really have a point here.  I really don't have a coherent thought.  I'm just sad.

Monday, May 13, 2013

Leeds-Settle-Carlisle

You have to understand it was 2003 when I first toured in England.  On a typical two-week American holiday, I obviously couldn't take it all in, and two of the things I missed were Leeds Armoury and Hadrian's Wall.  For non-UK residents, the Royal Armouries house weapons --including Henry VIII's armor, when he could still fit into armor--from the medieval to the present.  Royal Armouries is plural because there are three of them -- the original was in the Tower of London, which still exists, and incidentally is the fourth oldest museum in the world, with records going back to 1545.  However, Leeds ithe largest, with over 70,000 items.  So I was pretty shocked to arrive and find Iron Man and a Stormtrooper.

It turned out it was "superhero weekend," with talks on the armour and weapons of superheroes.  Not surprisingly, the place was thronged with children.  It was actually a little disturbing to think these parents thought "a good day out" was a museum dedicated to violence and war!  However, ignoring them -- which is a little hard when you turn a corner and walk into Boba Fett -- the collection itself was pretty amazing.  I do have to say that, like almost every museum, I was really disappointed they don't put items into context and try to tell a story.  For example, having ten suits of armor is pretty cool, but with no idea why one is better than the other, or what technological changes occurred that spurred innovation, it just looks like ten suits of armor.

I only planned to spend a couple of hours there and then go to the Leeds Museum or art gallery, but I ended up spending the entire day the armoury, and the other museums were just closing when I arrived.  I didn't spend much time in central Leeds, because the people were pretty rough.  I don't think I've ever seen to many tattoos, skin tight pants, and multicoloured hair--and that was just the women over 50!

The next morning I bought a one-way ticket to Carlisle and got off at Keighley. I did verify I could hop on/off the train along the way, and was planning on making the most of the day, including a 6-mile trek through the Dales. Keighley was a steam train through the Worth valley, which is only of note because the BrontĂ« sisters (authors of Jane Eyre and Wuthering Heights) lived in Haworth, a sleepy little hillside town. Of course I had my luggage and it was making the most horrific noise on the cobblestones, so I ended up carrying it.  Uphill.  For a mile.  Thus ended all thought of walking through the dales; when I got back to Keighley I took the train straight to Carlisle.  As a result, I did get to see the Carlisle Cathedral, which wasn't on my to do list, but was lovely anyway.

As you remember from my visit to Chester, England was a Roman outpost from 43CE to 410CE, and although England was conquered rather easily, Scotland was not.  To keep the Scottish raiders out, the Roman emperor Hadrian ordered a 73-mile wall built from Carlisle to Newcastle in 122CE.  I had tried to see the wall in 2003 but had not understood the brochure, which said Corbridge was a Roman town that *supported* the wall, which was a mile away.  (And in any case Corbridge is now only the foundations of a town that supported the wall a mile away, and hardly worth the exorbitant entry fee they charge.)

So this time I took a bus -- appropriately known as the AD122 bus -- to the wall.  I ended up getting off at Chester Fort, which coincidentally was hosting a "Roman living history" day.  Just as people in the States host Civil War re-enactments, people in the UK host Roman re-enactments, which was a lot of fun.  But more importantly, I got to see two sections of the wall!  Or, more accurately, the foundations of two sections of the wall.  I'm sure it looked much more imposing in its day.

I also went to the Tullie House museum which, not surprisingly, had a lot of information on Hadrian's Wall.  What was surprising was that it was funded by the European Union, not the UK, but of course Roman history is a big part of European history, and the wall was the northern border of the Roman Empire.

The next morning, I caught the train into Workington, just 50 minutes away, for my 10am meeting.  That was much more civilised than getting up at 4am and driving 6 hours!  Plus I have marked out several spots in the Yorkshire Dales that I want to revisit by car.  Mindy Smith, one of my favourite singer-songwriters, is coming to Leeds at the end of June, so I may make another weekend out of it.

Dairy products

Start with "raw milk" in the middle.

Monday, May 6, 2013

Capons

I just passed a restaurant called 'The Capon Tree.' Thinking it might be vegetarian, I googled 'capon.' It's not:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capon

Friday, May 3, 2013

Yorkshire Dales

I should be in Spain right now. 

Literally--I had a ticket to Malaga for 8am this morning.

And no, I didn't miss my flight (although I have done so in the past).  I was told by the UK Border Agency not to leave the country.

Ironically, they said this as they were granting me residency status in the UK.

So that's the good news: I am no longer on a work permit, and I can live in the UK as long as I want (although I still can't vote).

I was actually quite worried, because they've continually changed the rules since I've been here -- the last major change just three weeks before my appointment -- and I honestly wasn't sure if it would be granted. Five years ago I had to pay around £250 (US $400) and prove a certain education and salary level to come to the UK.  Today I had to pay over £1,400 (US $2,200) and prove a significantly higher education or salary to stay here.  I just squeaked by on the salary, but only by including my bonus.  (They also asked for a letter from my employer, but the company would only verify my salary without the bonus, so I didn't submit it.)

So it was with a great deal of relief when I was told my application had been granted.  They then told me my "biometric resident permit" would arrive in the mail in 7-10 days, and not to leave the country without it.  I said I had a plane ticket for Spain in 6 days and they shrugged and told me I could leave the country, but I wouldn't be allowed back in.

I looked at postponing the trip, but the ticket was £124 and the change fee was £100, so there wasn't much value there.  I also checked my travel insurance but on page 3 of the list of exclusions was, "17. You not having the correct passport or visa."  Plus they had a £50 "excess," so I still wouldn't have gotten very much back.  In the end I just let it go, and I'll go back to Spain another day.

So now I had a three-day weekend in the UK (this being the early May bank holiday) and nothing to do.  Worse, on Tuesday I had to be in Workington at 10am for a meeting, which is in the north-west corner of England.  Going home would involve at least 9 hours of commuting, and I'd have to come back Monday afternoon anyway, so it certainly wouldn't feel like a three-day weekend.

I looked at several options, including the "Victorian Extravaganza" in northern Wales, taking the ferry to Belfast, or lying on the beach at Blackpool, before finally deciding on an itinerary:

Friday: Manchester synagogue, stay at holiday inn (company pays)

Saturday: Train to Leeds (£20, 2 hours), Armouries (free), Leeds art gallery or city museum, comedy show at hifi club (£10 advance, stay at Holiday Inn Express

Sunday: Train to Carlisle through Yorkshire Dales (£27), Townhouse B&B in Carlisle (£35/night)

Monday: Bus to Hadrian's wall, Cathedral, Tullie House Museum

Tuesday: Train to Workington (£9, 50 minutes), get a ride from co-worker to Liverpool

Even better, by staying at the corporate hotel Friday night I can get my company to pay for it; I can charge them for the hotel on Monday as well; and I can use reward points for the hotel in Leeds, so I only have to pay for one hotel night.  In addition, my company pays me about £127 for commuting, so I'll get to see some spectacular scenery and have a lovely weekend essentially for free!

Not counting the £124 I spent on the plane ticket to Spain...