Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Pershing Square

In the middle of downtown Los Angeles is a square block known as Pershing Square.  At 5 acres, it is 0.5% the size of New York's Central Park.  And to call it a park would be a misnomer, as it was completely covered in concrete in 1994.  There is a fountain that is supposed to represent water coming from the nearby mountains (the purple bell tower) via an aqueduct to irrigate the citrus trees (orange spheres), but it just looks stupid.  The seating was intentionally designed to be uncomfortable to deter the homeless, but it turns out when you have no place else to go, uncomfortable seating is the least of your concerns.  The smell of urine is overwhelming, and the only reason to go there is that in December they set up an ice rink.

Which is what I was doing in Pershing Square earlier this month, while I was in LA.  Too bad I don't ice skate, but it's still fun to watch, and the view of the surrounding architecture (including the Biltmore hotel) is a fantastic backdrop.

Of course I didn't think about it after that.  What I was thinking about was interstate highways, and why some of them (such as I-405 in Los Angeles) don't actually cross interstates.  So I googled it, and discovered the interstate highways weren't set up for transportation, they were set up for military use.

In 1919, as part of World War I, the army needed to transport items from Washington DC to Oakland, California.  The transcontinental railroad proved inadequate, so they set up a motor convoy which took 573 hours, at an average speed of 5.67 mph.  Deemed completely inadequate, the federal government asked the military for a list of roads it deemed to be strategically important, and iIn 1922 General John J. Pershing submitted a detailed, 32-foot long map of 200,000 miles of interconnected primary highways.

However, not much happened until Dwight "Ike" Eisenhower was elected president in 1953.  As a young Army officer, he had been part of the 1919 Army Convoy, and as a 5-star general in World War II he appreciated the need to move troops quickly.  In 1956 the National Interstate and Defense Highways Act was passed. The initial cost estimate was $25 billion over 12 years; it ended up costing $114 billion ($425 billion in 2006 dollars) and took 35 years.  It was declared complete in 1992, although even today there are some interchanges that are still unfinished.  You can now drive coast-to-coast in about 40 hours instead of 573.

Many interstates were designed to connect strategically important locations, such as airports and sea ports, plus the US borders. The Interstates were designed to move troops, not encourage economic growth, which is why some of the highways seem so incongruous.  (Note that, contrary to popular belief, Interstate Highways are not designed to serve as airstrips.  It is an urban myth that one out of every five miles of the Interstate Highway System must be built straight and flat.)

Which of course brought me back to Pershing.  It turns out, General John J. Pershing was the head of the American Expeditionary Force in Europe during World War I, and promoted to General of the Armies of the United States in 1919.  As this rank was created especially for Pershing, he was also invited to design his own insignia.  At the time, the highest rank was a 4-star General, which used silver stars, so he created a 4-star gold insignia.  During World War II, the 5-star general was created, but this is still outranked by Pershing's 4 gold stars.  (Bizarrely, only one other person has been given 4 gold stars: In 1976, during the US bicentennial, President Ford posthumously awarded the rank to George Washington.)

La Plaza Abaja ("The Lower Plaza") -- declared a public square in 1866 -- had been renamed St. Vincent's Park, Los Angeles Park, 6th Street Park, and Central Park. In November 1918, at the end of World War I, it was renamed "Pershing Square" in honor of the General of the Armies and, not incidentally, the father of the Interstate Highway System.  Sadly, it has been a neglected eyesore since it was "renovated" in 1952 to build a car park underneath.  It's 1992-1994 "remodel" made it even worse.  However, earlier this year it was announced that a task force had been set up to help "re-envision" the park.  Of course, one 5-acre park is not going to help reduce decades of neglect in the city centre, nor solve the homeless problems, but it is a step in the right direction.  General Pershing deserves better.

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Limmud 2013

I first heard about Limmud--a 4 1/2 day conference on Jewish learning--in 2011, but I didn't attend.  In 2012 I attended one day, and this year I attended two days.  Clearly I'm working my way into it slowly.

To be fair, it is quite overwhelming--2600 attendees, 1100 different seminars, 450 presenters!  Everything from Jewish mysticism to Indian head massage.  You can talk about nothing but God for 4 1/2 days, or you can go and not talk about God at all for 4 1/2 days!  There are people from all around the world, from 8 to 80, from the most progressive to the most conservative.

That's not true--the ultra-orthodox are not represented at all, which makes it very hard to engage with them.  I am always forced to interpret them through the Amish people I met in Pennsylvania, who have taken a similar decision (although, in my opinion, a more intellectually honest one) about living a simple life according to old traditions.

Although this year the Haredi were represented in the form of an Israeli soap opera called Shtisel. Presented as simply a "day in the life" of a young rabbi in an Haredi community, it was really an interesting way to engage with that mindset, which really became relevant later that day during a panel session called, "We Have Reason To Believe."

The title was actually taken from a 1957 book by Rabbi Louis Jacobs which asked, if the Bible (Torah) was not actually given to Moses by God on Mount Sinai, why should we follow it?  (This is personally relevant because it was when I was posed the same question that I decided to convert.)  Of course, Rabbi Jacobs sets forth a number of persuasive reasons, but for even suggesting the Torah was not divinely authored he was effectively kicked out of the Orthodox community!

So the panel discussion was to revisit this question, 56 years on, with different streams of Judaism.  Listening to the Orthodox response, and reading between the lines, after having watched Shtisel, I realised what they were saying was: What does it matter?

Now, I have to qualify that because obviously it matters very much if they were willing to excommunicate a very senior and well-respected rabbi for even suggesting otherwise!  While challenging the Orthodox belief is still not allowed, the point is the answer is immaterial to the practice.  That is, whether you believe the Torah was written by man or God is irrelevant, provided you accept it for whatever reasons you choose.

So when Orthodoxy wraps itself into logical pretzels trying to explain why Genesis contains two separate and conflicting versions of the story of Noah (go read it, I'll wait) the point is not that they are being intellectually dishonest; they are just operating on a completely different plane than I am.  While I am trying to use these examples to attack them, they are not even in the same space.

Which, of course, is why I go to Limmud--to challenge my preconceptions, to appreciate new viewpoints and to gain new information.  Which is also why I was pretty annoyed after the first day--of the seven sessions I went to, I didn't get a single thing out of five of them!  (Had I the foresight to sit close to the door, I might have escaped and been able to go late to another session, but I failed to do that every single time!)

Seven, one-hour sessions in a day may seem crazy, but I was actually slacking--they start at 9:20am and finish around midnight, so I could have done twice as many.  Limmud takes over the University of Warwick -- classrooms, cafeterias, and dormitories -- during the winter break, and charges £375 ($613 USD) for the full program, including all meals and accommodation (with a shared bathroom).  Some people complain it's too expensive--pointing out they could have a four day beach holiday for about the same--but I get a lot more out of it than a beach holiday.  (Plus, only coming for two days saved me £150.)

I should mention that all of the staff and presenters are volunteers, and many people volunteer in exchange for a discount.

My only complaint about Limmud is that it appears to be completely unmoderated--anyone with an idea can do a presentation.  While that is perhaps part of its strength, I would like to see them provide more support and guidance, so that people who haven't presented before can at least learn from other people, rather than failing on their own.  Of course, now that I've suggested that, there's no reason I can't put myself forward to do a seminar on that next year!

I might even get a discount.

Sunday, December 22, 2013

Lucy and me

I still haven't uploaded my photos from the States, but here's one a good friend of mine took in Los Angeles.  (That's Lucy on the left.)

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Holiday greetings

As I've been so poor about sending holiday greetings this year -- or communicating in general -- I decided to send other people's holiday greetings:

The Sneed family have too much time on their hands

The Holderness family have too much...something.  Eggnog, perhaps?

The Slade family card is cute, but the "making of" is even better (especially if you like to watch cats falling from the ceiling)

One London building turned itself into a Christmas tree

Another turned its shopfront into a boys' choir

The worst neighbor in the world

This game brings new meaning to the term "tossing cookies" (use the arrow keys/space bar)

And, of course, the annual Jib Jab 2013 year in review

As for me, I don't have much to report -- same job, same flat, same car -- although I am looking to change all that in the new year.  I might be a little wiser, or just a little closer to senility, depending on your viewpoint.  I'll be at Limmud over the holidays and in New Zealand in a couple of weeks.  (I'm also going to Dublin next month but that doesn't sound nearly as cool.) 

At the risk of sounding hackneyed, I hope everyone has a lovely holiday--regardless of your persuasion--and a great new year.  Or, as my Welsh co-worker just taught me, Nadolig LLawen a Blwyddyn Newydd Da. (Which just reinforced my belief that the Welsh language was made up by a 2 year old.)

Friday, December 20, 2013

Middle Earth

Two months ago I decided to go to New Zealand, but needed to wait until January for my vacation time to roll over.  That was actually perfect, because I'd be escaping the English winter to the New Zealand summer! 

However, just to make it more complicated--and to break the flights up a little--I decided to spend a couple of days in Sydney on the way in, and a couple of days "somewhere" on the way out.  My options were: Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Beijing, New Delhi, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.

Every day I searched for flights to all these destinations, and finally my perseverance paid off: An Air China flight via Beijing for £700 (USD $1150)!  I immediately tried to book on their web site, only to be met by an error message that I hadn't entered my credit card.  Of course I had--and did so several more times--but the web site was adamant I hadn't.  I was in Los Angeles on holiday at the time and so couldn't spend all day messing with it.  Of course, when I tried again in the evening, the price had jumped to £1200 (USD $1950)!

So I continued to keep an eye out and about two weeks later, I saw another flight on Air China for only £1000.  Figuring this was as good as it was going to get, I booked it.  This time the credit card went through without a problem, and I promptly got a confirmation email, followed by an email with my ticket information, followed by an email that read:

Dear Customer,

After a system validation, we found that your ticket has not been issued successfully however you were still charged for the ticket fees.

To avoid any loss, we have refunded your ticket fees. It will take approximately 2 to 3 weeks for the payment to be posted to your payment card account.

We apologize for any inconvenience. For any questions, please contact a local branch of Air China.

What?? Obviously I was rather upset -- partly because I didn't have a ticket, but mostly because I had maxed out one credit card in California, and now they had maxed out my other credit card, so I had no way to pay for another ticket!

In any case, prices went back to £1200 so I was watching and waiting for another week, spending at least 30 minutes searching every day . With only 3 weeks remaining and no sign of falling prices, I finally decided to bite the bullet, so I logged into my bank to shift some funds around.  That's when I discovered that Air China had billed me twice and refunded me once!

Very confused, I called them (oddly, I got someone who spoke with a Russian accent) and they confirmed I had a ticket all along!  So in the end I was grateful I hadn't bought another ticket, as of course they weren't refundable!

Of course, by then I'd realised that stopping in Beijing was a very bad idea: First, a quick glance at the map shows that Beijing is completely out of the way!  If you go via Dubai, it's 22 hours flight time; if you go via Beijing, it's 29 hours!!  So much for "breaking up" the flight.  Second, Beijing is 8 hours ahead of Britain, and I'll be flying home on a Sunday and going to work on Monday!  Madness!

But the deed is done and I have 55 hours to see Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City (9,000 rooms spread over 250 acres!), the Summer Palace, the Great Wall, the Temple of Heaven, and more. (China just introduced a free "72 hour visa" so I don't even have to apply for a visa!)  I know it's just a teaser, but I'm really looking forward to it, as it is my first trip to the Orient.

Sydney will be slightly more relaxed: I'll have 4 days to see the harbor, Opera House, botanic gardens, museums, lots of historic architecture, the Jewish museum and of course miles of beaches.

As for New Zealand, well, I think this Air New Zealand commercial says it all:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7q7WFMuxsg